Waiting for Aziz (Tarifa Parte Dos)

The reason we can't leave!

Unable to leave this beautiful place we decided to stay another day. After having our café con leche y café solo we spent some time relaxing by the pool. We took advantage of the fast WIFI connection to get caught up on some work and research our next leg.

Looking towards Africa

We have sent an email to Aziz who is a highly recommended tour guide for Morocco. We are very reluctant to take one of the pre-packaged tours. We have no interest in sitting on a camel, watching a snake charmer or shopping for rugs. We want to see the architecture and learn about the history of Morocco. Aziz is a professor at the university and his tours focus on the unique aspects of the city of Tangiers.

Looking down at the coast

Meanwhile we climbed back in the car and headed along the beach. Turning onto a dirt road, littered with fallen boulders we drove up the mountain. We pulled over and looked down upon the coast. The beach lay before us, la agua azul glowing in the sun.

The cave

Shortly, a car pulled up and three elderly French women stepped out. We spent about forty five minutes talking to them. They asked lots of questions about our journey and told us about the local geography. Behind us were enormous cliffs that are home to Peregrine Falcons. Below us we could see the mountains of La Plata and San Bartolome.

Wild flowers everywhere

Towards the top we could see a large cave. The women explained that inside were petroglyphs. We were unable to get to the cliffs from where we stood. Evidently, the only access required a 1 hour hike through a military encampment.

Baelo Claudia

After we spent some time admiring the view we headed back down. Susana, one of the hotel staff had told Luis to check out the city of Bolonia. This is where she lived and recommended a couple of must see locations. Along the road to Bolonia we saw signs for Baelo Claudia. These Roman ruins were from the first century. Built along the ocean’s edge, this ancient city included two cemeteries or necropolises, the foundations of the Mercado, the basilica, the teatro and the temple of Isis.

The aqueduct

The path took us past the aqueduct that emptied into a large cistern by the old gates of the city.

The baths

The ruins included very well preserved Roman baths. The plumbing was visible and quite interesting. To think that the people living in this area 2000 years ago, were already using techniques in plumbing that are still used to this day. For all our technological advances, this one seems to have stayed stagnant for a long time. I guess as the old saying goes, "If it isn't broke, then don't fix it". The next set of buildings was the forum. The columns and a statue of the emperor Trajan stood starkly against the backdrop of the blue water and dunes beyond.

The Roman city was primarily a fishing port, gaining wealth from the tuna catch. Situated close to the straights of Gibraltar, it also was an important strategic port for advancing Rome’s conquests into Africa. During the second century it acquired the name Caludia. During the end of the 3^nd century the city declined due to devastation from a large earthquake (or terremoto one of Jane’s favorite words). Around the 7^th century the city was abandoned.

The Teatro

Part of the Castillo de Guzman

Leaving the ruins we continued along the coastal road to the cuidad de Tarifa.

Tarifa is a small but bustling port city. Named for an 8th century commander who landed here during the Moorish conquests. Tarifa is also the southern most point of continental Europe. From here ferries depart for Tangiers and other Spanish port cities further up the coast.


An old bunker along the coast

We wound through the city and found ourselves at the edge of the peninsular. Looking out we saw where the Mediterranean and the Atlantic oceans meet. It is amazing to think of all the ancient ships that have passed through these waters. Along the ocean’s edge is the Castillo de Guzman and the old city walls. In the 13th century the Moors kidnapped Guzman's son, however, he did not surrender. Even when his son's throat was slashed in front of him. Guzman even threw down his own knife to the executioners! Makes you wonder how many of these stories are romanticized throughout the years. Still, this story is said to be true. We saw the old arch leading to the city narrow city center. Above the 13 century arch was an inscription describing the city as "a very noble and loyal city".

In the late afternoon we returned to the beach to soak in the evenings last views. We strolled far along the beach to the next cove and a outcropping of rocks. Walking along the shore we found an old military bunker barely visible from the sand. After about 30 minutes, we realized that the tide was coming in and that we should head back before we had to make our return through the dunes.

As the day came to an end we returned to the hotel to see if Aziz had emailed us. The internet was still not working at the hotel. We are still up in the air about our plans to visit Morocco. Still, what a wonderful day, what an amazing experience, visiting the South of Spain by the ocean.