Fin de Semana Santa

Plaza de Toros

We woke up this morning feeling pretty tired. As we headed for Sevilla, we both felt indifferent about visiting the city. Being this is Semana Santa and Seville is the capital of the festivities, we were unable to keep away. Entering the city we looked at our guide book map to get our bearings. We had to laugh when we opened up to the page with the plaza de Toros de la maestranza. We were literally passing it right then. We drove along the Guadalquivir (the river that cuts through town) past impressive old mansions, until we found a place to park.

Not knowing what we wanted to see we started walking into the heart of the old city. Heading along Paseo de Cristobal Colon, we entered the El Arenal section of the city. Passing the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, this time on foot, we had a much better view of the 18^th century bullring. Originally, constructed in 1761, the stands now hold up to 14,000 spectators. The bullfighting season begins tomorrow (Easter Sunday), so we were unable to see an actual bullfight. Even if there had been a bullfight, we most likely would not be able to buy tickets. The Plaza is the most popular place to watch Spain’s best matadors. On the outside of the plaza we could see the Puerta del Principe. This is the door through which the triumphant matadors are carried on the shoulders of their fans. The outside had several doors marked “Taquilla”. I assumed that this is where the matadors could order a glass of liquid courage, but it turns out these are the ticket booths.

Seville Cathredral

Continuing on, we walked towards Santa Cruz and found ourselves in front of the Seville cathedral and its bell tower, La Giralda. The bell tower and the interior Patio de los Naranjos were built by the moors in the 12^th century; with the rest of the Christian structure completed in the late 1400’s. We sat and looked at the intricate details of the spires and grand façade. We contemplated going in but there was a long line and we just don’t like standing in lines! After some time admiring the view, we continued past the Real Alcazar and another long line. Not for us.

Long Lines

Continuing our stroll, we decided to walk along Calle Miguel Manara into another smaller plaza. Noticing a group of people setting up cups of water on a table, Luis stopped to ask what was going on. Handing us a cup of water, the man said that in half an hour the first of 5 Pasos was coming through. We decided to grab a sandwich, sit and wait.



The procession approaches

Off in the distance we could hear the sound of drums growing louder. Soon the trumpets were approaching. The few people waiting in the plaza suddenly became many. The processional was coming.

The caped crusaders

The first people we saw were the people dressed in capes. They look like green klu klux Klan type robes, complete with the pointy hat. They walked somberly by us. Next were the drummers. They were followed by the first of the Pasos. Waiting off to the side, many men stood, resting between turns in carrying the heavy floats.

Getting closer....

The float was a large rectangle upon which stood a brightly painted, wooden figure of Christ on the cross.

Behind the float marched the trumpeters. The crowd clamored around the float, mostly taking pictures with their cell phones. Next to me an elderly man began to sing to the somber music that was playing.



In the thick of it

The first Paso

Standing, watching, we could imagine the same scene played out over many decades…..only without the cell phones. The procession continued slowly up the hill only stopping periodically. A man would knock on the float with a large silver hammer that was attached to the front. He would call out to the men beneath the float, only their feet exposed, to see if they were able to continue. The weight of the Paso was evident by the red faces and sweaty tired looks of the men taking their break.

Turning the corner

The second Paso

As the float and the music began to fade, another paso appeared at the end of the street. Many more Procession Cloaked people started up the hill, some carrying banners, staffs, lanterns of incense, and other relics sacred to their church. The next paso was that of the Virgin Mary. After the floats passed, it was impressive to see the cleanup crew that immediately came through to pick up any trash. A few minutes later it was as if nothing had ever happened. As we stood watching, the last of the crowd began to leave. The rain had started up again, and a local taking shelter with us under a tree, told us that the rest of the procession was being cancelled. Sure enough, the people handing out water packed up and left.

The river walk

Torro de oro

Energized by the intensity of the procession, we walked back to the river. Jutting out of the river bank was the Torre del Oro. This Moorish tower was once part of the walled defenses of the Reales Alcarzares. Across the river, once had stood a companion tower. Back in the day, a metal chain would be stretched between the two towers, to prevent enemy ships from sailing up the river. The name Torre del Oro may have been derived from the treasures unloaded from the Americas. As it was now raining pretty steadily, we thought it was a good time to depart the city of Seville. We luckily located our car, after realizing we hadn't paid too much attention to where we had left it. Heading out of town we drove west along the coast towards Portugal.

Turning south after an hour, we passed through El Rocio and Palos de La Frontera, where Columbus set sail in 1492. We stopped to stretch our legs in the town of Torre de la Higuera near Playa de Matalascanas. Still raining, we stopped for a coffee and looked out at the ocean. Just off shore was a small ruined Roman tower, crumbling into the sea. We continued on through the Parque Natural Entorro de Donana; a national forest that is comprised of sand dunes and African looking trees. We finally pulled in around 9 pm to our little hotel in Cartaya, just southwest of Huelva. The view from our balcony was lovely, over- looking fields, some happy horses and the ocean beyond.

Fin de Semana Santa